From -Will Gorgen Fairwind # 229
13092 Glasgow Ct.
Plymouth, MI 48170
Here is a Snapshot of the jib pivot.
Sorry for the quality, but I think you can make out the important features.
You can see how much lower the jib is using this system than the standard
arrangement. Also, the rearward position of the pivot moves the axis of
rotation closer to the center of effort of the sail as well as the center of
mass of the sail making the sail swing out into a wing and wing arrangement
much easier.
The pivot is a ball bearing fishing swivel. I bought a box of 5 of them for
3 bucks or something like that. I drilled a hole in the deck and tied the
swivel to a bar below deck that is pulled up flush to the bottom side of the
deck. I moved the pivot point on the boom rearward as well. The forward hole
of the new pivot location is the rear hole of the original position, so i
only had to drill one new hole.
From - Russell Stricker Fairwind # 4214
Ballast-converts from metric to 3LBs
12oz. I now use 3lbs 15oz and find faster speed in all winds, also use only
#8 buckshot and pour small amounts of Probond wood glue over the shot over
a 3 or 4 day period as it will run around all the shot and keep it all tight.
When it looks like its about all run in after a few days to dry, I put
a final coat across the top to seal it.
From -Will Gorgen Fairwind # 229
13092 Glasgow Ct.
Plymouth, MI 48170
When I was building my boat, I chose to use the Futaba s3801 Sail servo. This servo is much bigger than the standard servo that the servo tray was
designed for, so it did not fit in the space that was designed to hold the
sail servo. I mounted the servo into the receiver box part of the tray.
I
purchased some 1/2" by 1/4" wood from my local hobby shop and fabricated
servo mounting points on the front and rear of the receiver box. I then
mounted the servo to the tray with standard servo screws as shown in the
picture.
There is still plenty of room in the receiver tray for the receiver.
The old sail servo mount structure is just about the right size for the
square 4.8V battery pack that came with my radio. With a very small
modification, I was able to put my battery in there. This also helps to keep
the boat balanced. Because the sail servo is on the opposite side from the original design, the
jib sheet turning clip on the rudder cross member should also be switched to
the other side (from starboard to port) to prevent the servo and the jib
sheet from getting tangled. This is a toss-up because the rudder arm is on
the port side so there is less room, but I think it is less likely to snag
by switching the turning clip to the other side.
(Note: the shackle at the end of the servo arm in the picture. ) rick
From: Dan Nellis
Millpond Marauders Wisconsin
The correct Fairwind sail adjustment is when the end of the jib boom
is on or at the edge of the deck when all sails are drawn in tight.
The main should be off the back corner of the transom.
(Rick: I like to be able to pull the main into the center of the
boat. So I start off my sail adjustment with the end of the jib boom
pointing at the side stays and the main pulled tight to the center.)
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Boom setup.
